BasicBasil

A diamond for dinner...

"White Alba truffle " (Italian: Tartufo bianco d'Alba).

Here's the jewel that, from our cucina rustica (traditional Italian home-cooking), has conquered the most sophisticated tables of the world, becoming one of the symbols of haute cuisine as well as a culinary statement of distinction; this year's record sale at the "Asta Mondiale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba" (the international Alba truffle held once a year in Piedmont) was set by a truffle sold for 100,000 euros, or roughly 150,000 usd, to a customer from Hong kong.

I reckon it's quite a task to connect the image of the clumsy, grubby fungus above with posh diners, six figure prices and five-star chefs; but, just like the frog turned into a prince when kissed by the beautiful princess, so the timid tuber blooms, as the blade touches it. When sliced it reveals its secret: an aroma that caresses your senses and stimulates the palate like no other, sort of like garlic lightly sauteed in butter with a hint of autumn woodlands; curious at first, then most likely addictive. White 'Alba' truffle has the most intense and distinctive scent, which, together with its scarcity, make it the most expensive item on most menus. It owes part of its name to the Italian town of Alba, in the Northern region of Piedmont, renowned for the quality of its truffles. 

One of the most traditional ways of consuming tartufo is sliced very thinly over 'sunny side up' eggs, with freshly made or grilled polenta. It can turn the ordinary into extraordinary when added into mashed potatoes, or sliced over a pan seared filet mignon with a light buttery sauce. 

Truffles should be eaten a few days after they've been unearthed. One of the ways to store them is by placing them in a box with raw rice in the refrigerator, thus avoiding the formation of humidity which will ruin the precious ingredient.

Speck & Rosemary Risotto

This inspiringly aromatic risotto has an ingredient that deserves a mention: speck, not in the English sense of the word, as the tiny rosemary spots in the picture above might lead you to believe. "Speck" is a type of cured meat, similar to prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham) or jamon Serrano of Spain, typical of the Alpine region of Tirol. Being that Tirol has been shared by Italy and Austria since 1918, speck has become quite popular all across Italy. It's used much like Parma ham but has a distinctively different flavor; its aroma is slightly smoky, with hints of juniper berry, bringing to mind the scents of a pine forest.

Preparation is quite similar to other risottos:

• 600 gr (21 ounces) of rice - Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone Nano and Baldo variety are best
• 100gr (3 and a half ounces) of butter
  
• one onion, finely chopped
• a glass of dry white wine
  
• 2 or 3 liters (2 and a half quarts) of beef stock - or mixed beef and chicken stock
  
• 3 slices of speck
• fresh rosemary to taste
  
• 100 gr (3 and a half ounces) of grated Parmesan cheese
  
• salt to taste

Put half of the butter in a pan (its width should be more than its hight), add the onion and the marrow. Fry for 2/3 min. on medium heat, add the rice stirring for another 5 minutes (this will give the rice its distinctive flavor before it actually cooks), add the glass of white wine and stir a bit, after 1/2 minutes start adding the heated stock with a ladle (add little by little till the rice grains are cooked, stirring). When the rice is almost ready, chop the rosemary and the speck and add to the rice and finish the cooking. Turn off the heat and add the remaining butter, the grated Parmesan cheese, stir the whole thing and serve immediately.

I had this a few nights back in a cozy restaurant near Lake Maggiore, in northern Italy. It's an ideal fare during the first cold evenings of autumn, and can well be enjoyed with a good red wine, warming body and soul.

Bell (peppers), book, and candle!

Another ordinary 'miracle' of Italian family kitchens is roasted bell peppers salad. Used as an appetizer, aperitivo or side dish in many homes or trattorias.

Through the ages, Italians, had to cope with scarcity of food; most traditional dishes -- pasta, pizza or risotto for example -- demonstrate well the ability to make the most out of little more than what could be grown near home.

This is a rather simple recipe, the only cooking involved is roasting whole peppers on a grill over charcoal (or with the oven broiler).

After the peppers have been duly roasted -- when they lose volume, get softer and the thin skin over their pulp starts to bubble -- let them sit to cool till you can handle them and remove the thin skin. At this point remove the stem and all the seeds (leaving only the colored pulp). Cut the pulp in thin stripes (around one cm or a third of an inch) and place them in a serving dish. Add some large green olives like the "Bella di Cerignola" type (not the dark ripe ones since they'll override the taste of the peppers), a few capers, salt to taste, a good amount of extra virgin olive oil, a little dried oregano or some chopped fresh parsley and a finely chopped clove of garlic, mix in order to blend all the condiments and let it sit for 20 minutes at least -- you can add a few drops of balsamic vinegar if you like. Please note that you can prepare this salad a day ahead and store it in an airtight container in the fridge -- remember to take it out from the fridge at least one or two hours before serving. If any is left over, it can be stored the same way and enjoyed for the following couple of days.

I know that there are similar dishes to this -- and many others -- throughout the Mediterranean, which goes to show how much different populations have interacted with each other in this part of the world and proves how interaction and exchange benefits the development of cultures.

Fall's Delights: Chestnuts

Chestnuts we picked near our house

Autumn has arrived once again here in Italy. Leaves are changing color, some are starting to fall, summer seems suddenly a memory, and cooling fans gave way to fireplaces.
This is usually the season here when the extra pounds lost during the summer come back with a vengeance! Work and school have fully resumed, temperature lowers and gatherings of friends and families around seasonal treats become the norm.
A typical pastime in autumn throughout the country  is hiking with friends in the woods, armed with leather gloves, cane and a bag picking fallen chestnuts out of their prickly nests.

After a good amount has been gathered -- which varies depending on how many people you've told about your hike and will therefore show up later -- a superficial cut (a little over 1 cm / half inch long) is made on the side of each nut; now they're ready to be placed in a slotted pan (a frying pan with holes on the bottom part) and over hot charcoal until roasted -- around 15 or 20 minutes, depending on the heat. While roasting it's customary to take turns shaking the pan, in order to cook them evenly. Try adding some fresh bay leaves and a handful of salt during the last two minutes of roasting, you won't regret it! It's customary to enjoy "caldarroste" (that's the local vernacular for roasted chestnuts) with a bottle of red wine and the company of friends.

Roasting chestnuts on a wood-fire outside our home

Chestnuts are found throughout Italy, where they've been a part of the local diet for centuries. Cakes, jams, candies and sweets are made out of the nuts, as well as chestnut flour -- made by grinding dried chestnuts. Throughout history, in many areas of our peninsula, chestnut flour and chestnuts have been the only source of nutrition during famines and conflicts, due to their highly nutritious properties (calories and vitamins). The ancient Romans are said to have spread chestnuts throughout Italy and most of Europe during the Empire's expansion in order to sustain their legions of soldiers through their campaigns.

We might owe the nut more than we think!

Calamari!

A classic throughout the Mediterranean shores and indeed in Italy: fried squid or calamari fritti  as they're called in Italy. They're served either alone (see picture) or as part of a very popular dish called  fritto misto -- literally 'fried mix' -- where shrimp and small fish such as fresh anchovies,sardines or smelts are added and cooked the same way.
The calamari are first cleaned of their central inner bone and beak, then cut perpendicularly into bite size pieces, rolled in flour (I found rice flour to be an excellent alternative to the wheat one), then deep fried into abundant hot olive oil, when golden (a few minutes, not more) they're placed on a tray or plate with kitchen paper (usually sheets from normal kitchen rolls) to absorb the extra oil, take out the paper as it soaks with the excess oil, sprinkle gently with salt and serve. In Italy they're never served with sauces on the side, only fresh wedges of lemon are placed next to them!
Popular throughout summer, usually enjoyed under the pergola of a sea-shore restaurant with a glass of chilled white wine!

"Antipasto di Polipo e Gamberi": A Summer Seafood Delight

This is a wonderfully fresh and well balanced seafood entree I had at a renowned restaurant overlooking the Amalfi coast; its ingredients are boiled octopus (yes, Italians love it as much as the Japanese do in their sushi and sashimi!), steamed shrimps, diced honeydew melon on a bed of rucola (arugula or rocket) and drizzled with an extra-virgin olive oil and lemon dressing.
I'm told that for this kind of preparation the octopus needs to be cooked very little, by dipping it in a large pot of boiling water for a couple of minutes -- leaving it in the hot water longer will make it tough and chewy as well as reducing the distinctive seashore aroma of fresh octopus!

Summer treats...

I've been on vacation for a while now, sorry for the lack of updates... but I'm back with my summer culinary experiences to share now!
The famous "scazzetta" cake from Pantaleone's pastry shop in Salerno, Italy. The shop opened in 1868 and apparently this masterpiece has been enjoyed since the late XIX century. The "scazzetta" has been offered to and appreciated by world dignitaries visiting the southern Italian city.
It consists of three layers of sponge cake, alternated with a layer of custard cream and one of preserved wild strawberries, then covered with fresh wild strawberries icing.
Amaaaaazing!

Neapolitan "babbà", prepared with whipped cream and sour cherries, a traditional dessert in Naples. I enjoyed this one in the posh town of Positano, on the Amalfi Coast.
The town of Amalfi.

Aperitivo: Gorgonzola Cheese & "Lampascioni"

The great tradition of Italian aperitivo has created a wide variety of culinary matches, to be enjoyed with one's favorite wine. If you're familiar with everyday life in Italy, you'll know that after work most Italians go to one of their favorite appointments: aperitivo! It is usually a time to let go of the stress accumulated throughout the day, meet with friends and make plans for the evening -- plans which often vanish as the aperitivo continues and actually becomes a dinner in itself. The ritual of aperitivo can take place at a friend's house, but most cities have a number of bars devoted to the cause. 

An aperitivo I find interesting is Gorgonzola cheese with pickled "lampascioni" (muscari comosum bulbs) and lightly toasted baguette.

Spaghetti & Seafood: "Pasta ai frutti di mare"

You could probably guess as you first look at the map of Italy that fish and seafood are a big thing in the indigenous cuisine. Stretching across the Mediterranean Sea and divided from central Europe by the continent's tallest peaks, throughout much of its history the country turned to the sea for most of its proteins. Fish and seafood are a favorite among Italian diners even in areas that are not right on the coast, it's common to see people order fish dinners when dining out through most of the country. This explains probably why sushi has been successful from its introduction in the early nineties and quickly became a trend with urban dwellers.

Ingredients and preparation of a classic "Pasta ai frutti di mare"

500 gr/1 lbs of good quality spaghetti

1kg / 2 lbs fresh clams with shell

250gr / 1/2 lbs chopped calamari

4 or 5 scallops

250gr / 172 lbs fresh shrimp scampi or lobster tails

3 garlic cloves

3 cups of tomato puree or 4 cups of ripe chopped tomatoes

olive oil

parsley -- flat-leaf italian variety if available

Put a large pot of water, filled to well over half of its capacity, on a high fire and bring to a boil and add sea-salt -- the ratio should be 10g of salt, 100g of pasta, 1 liter of water --.

Meanwhile clean and chop 3 cloves of garlic and add them to the oil you've poured in a large frying pan (the oil should be enough to cover the bottom of the pan well).

When the garlic starts to get a little color add some chopped calamari, clams (which you should have left for at least an hour and a half in a bucket of cold water with salt in order to get rid of the sand and then rinsed!), and chopped scallops if you like. 

When the juices given out from the seafood have reduced to half, add 2 or 3 cups of tomato puree or 4 cups of ripe chopped tomatoes (with tomatoes you can increase or reduce the amount depending on your taste), let the tomatoes boil  and bubble for 5 or 6 minutes and add the shrimp (scampi or even lobster meat cut into bite size pieces) and let simmer for a few minutes.

When the pasta is almost cooked or "al dente", drain it and add it to the pan with simmering sauce in it (if the pasta is not on time, turn the sauce off and turn it back on when the pasta is almost done). Mix it well and add a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil , a good amount of freshly chopped italian flat-leaf parsley and put it on a large serving plate.

Depending on freshness and availability you can add or change the types of seafood for the recipe, bearing in mind that different fish or seafood have different cooking times.

Buon Appetito!

Fried Eggplant "Panino"

A great summer lunch panino (sandwich): fried eggplant (aubergine), thin sliced spicy Provolone cheese and fresh basil leaves.

This was made with fresh organic eggplants from my aunt's backyard:

Cut the eggplant into a quarter of an inch thick round slices, coat them lightly with flour (wheat or rice flour), deep-fry them in hot oil until light brown, put a paper towel on a serving plate and place the fried eggplants on it to drain the excess oil, salt them to taste. Take some fresh 'ciabatta' or 'baguette' bread, cut it in half and toast it if you like for a minute, place thin slices of spicy provolone cheese on the bottom part of the bread and add the fried eggplant slices with a fresh basil leaf between each pair of slices.

You can spread some pesto sauce on the upper part of the bread if you like.. I love it but I did't have any ready :)

Buon Appetito!